Rio de Janeiro

These photos were taken from the balcony of my 24th floor hotel room in Rio de Janeiro. They were taken at 7:45 am as the rising sun beamed down over the city. The beaches in the far distance are first Leblon and then Ipanema. These are the nicer but more touristy parts of Rio (good shopping, food and entertainmen) If you continue around that far bend in the distance, the coast back in and forms another long beach, the famous: Copacabana. It cannot be seen in the photos. Today, after a vigorous swim followed by a large breakfast with a wide array of fruit to choose from - all of which is wonderful because it grows locally in this tropical climate, Philip and I went for a long stroll down the boardwalk all the way to Copacabana (about 4 miles). There is a wonderful atmosphere along the beach: even on a Tuesday at 10:30 am, the pathway was crowded with joggers, powerwalkers, skateboarders and cyclists. The weather was wonderful - like LA but maybe a tad bit warmer (remember, it is winter here now!). The sun was strong but relaxing and there is a very active, energetic feel amongst the locals and tourists alike. There are bike and running paths crisscrossing the entire city. Rio is completely different from Buenos Aires. Just think of the differences between LA and NYC and you will understand. The path along the beach reminded both of us of Santa Monica and Venice Beach - every once in a while, we came across a collection of young men doing pull-ups, dips and acrobatics on a variety of jungle gym like structures. There are cafes and kiosks every 200 yards offering shaded tables and the typical beach refreshments: fresh coconuts, beer, cocktails and ice cream. Across from the beach, the opposite side of the street is lined with hotels, high rise apartments and first-floor retail all of which looks like it was built at least twenty years ago but has been kept in decent condition. In some senses, Rio also feels very much like Acapulco as the beaches cove inwards and there are a few small islands in the distance.

The topography of the city is incredible. Large mountains, cliffs and hills rupture upward between dense urban life. Favellas (shanty towns) as well as nicer residential neighborhoods trickle down the sides of hills - reserving the peaks for churches, parks, and statues. In one photo, you can see the Corcovado (The Christ Redeemer) poised atop the tallest mountain overlooking Rio. It was recently named one of the new seven wonders of the world.
The people in Rio are diverse. There are many blacks. Many more mixed. And a large collection of tourists as well. The women are beautiful. The people all seem to be fit. There is some poverty on the streets - when walking through the city streets, we were approached by a few young beggars.

We returned around 2 pm and ate at our hotels beachside Churrascaria - all you can eat steak, chicken, lamb and pork served on skewers by waiters walking between tables. The real Fogo de Chao. Its now 7 pm and we are heading out to listen to Samba.

By the way, Mom and Dad, contrary to what everyone says, this place is not as dangerous as it seems. Don't worry. We'll be safe, smart and still have a great time.

Montevideo

We spent the past two days in Uruguay. We started in Colonia de Sacramento (see photo left)– a small, charming seaside village just an hour by boat from Buenos Aires. Colonia is composed of an old walled city that runs along the water, remnants of the cannons, lighthouse and guard towers remind tourists of the days when it was constantly bombarded by different countries trying to get a precious foothold for commerce in South America. It was also used as a smugglers port for commerce to and from Buenos Aires. As a visitor, one can really appreciate how little seems to have changed over the years within the walled part of the city. One can easily imagine the days when the streets were lined with pirates, fisherman, and navy seamen hustling around the small central square and dwarf. It was a really nice place to spend the morning. The other part of the city is livelier and more modern where the true residents eat, sleep and work. The main thoroughfare is lined with cafes, restaurants, hotels and a few nice public spaces not to mention quite a few stray dogs. It’s not quite as charming as the old city but also has a lot of character and more energy. All inall, Colonia is a great place to spend an afternoon away from Buenos Aires.

Next, we took a two hour bus ride along the coast to Montevideo – the capital of Uruguay. The bus ride was enjoyable – being in the rural parts of the country revealed juts how poor Uruguay is. The country has continually struggled to stabilize its economy which has been beaten down by inflation, high taxes, and a very chaotic government. Montevideo is similar to Buenos Aires except very rundown. La Ciudad Vieja, where we stayed, is laden with old European styled buildings – most of which are crumbling around the edges if not on the brink of collapse. We found Montevideo to be very sleepy, boring and were almost immediately craving Buenos Aires. We ended up departing Montevideo the next day much sooner than originally planned.

Highlights of Montevideo include visiting La Puerta Mercado (the port market - see photo) where you can sample almost any cut of grilled meat, sausage or fish imaginable at one of the many huge parillas serving up huge portions at great prices with counter top service. We were told at lunchtime, the market is jam-packed with locals from the dock and all over the city who come to assuage their carnivorous desires and return to work well-satiated (pictures below). We also ate dinner one night at an average restaurant where we ordered a mixed-grill consisting of Ostrich, Rabbit and nutria. We weren’t sure what Nutria was until after we had taken a few bites and were told it was a type of “river wolf with big teeth.” Upon further inquiry, we were shown a picture of a beaver. It is absolutely disgusting. It was also funny to later learn that in Argentina nutria is slang for the male genitalia – quite ironic.
A few observations about MonteVideo (note I was only there for 24 hours):
1. It seemed like everyone was carrying around a thermos of hot water and a mate (type of South American tea) gourd – taking a minute to fix up a warm cup ever so often.

2. Uruguayan culture is very similar to that of Argentinean but maybe just less “sophisticated” and less pretentious too.

3. The city is much poorer and less lively than BA. We were approached by many beggars late at night. We did not feel nearly as safe there. Apparently there is also a drug problem.

4. If you have an afternoon, visit Colonia but skip out on MV.

5. The economy is in shambles and it is readily apparent. Trash is collected by men using horse-drawn carts. Many of the vehicles lining the streets are from the 50s, 60s, and 70s.

6. We did however see quite a few attractive women.

Dinner at the Armenian Society

Last night, Philip and I had the pleasure of dining at the Union General Armenia de Beneficencia (UGAB). There is a large population of Armenians who live in Buenos Aires - they even have a street named after the country - La Calle Armenia, along which the UGAB, Armenian church and several other Armenian institutions. The UGAB is like the Jewish Community Center in Dallas for Armenians. Every friday night, they host a huge dinner, known as La Cena de los Viernes, in the main reception hall where the mothers prepare homemade Armenian food, the children wait on diners and the fathers organize the event. There is even a huge bakesale (see left photo) where attendees must reserves dessert in advance because of such high demand! The coolest part is that all the proceeds enable the young people (who are anywhere from 16 - 22) to take a trip to Armenia. The food was unbelievable, the service was fun, but most importantly the cause was really cool and we were treated as if we were eating in grandma's kitchen! They really took pride in the event and made sure that we were completely satisfied. It was a really, really cool experience.

INKED: Night out in BsAs

As I write this post, Philip and I are sipping tea and capuccinos in a small cafe in San Telmo, the oldest neighborhood in BA. We are about to go enjoy a steak sandwich at La Parilla (written about in an earlier post).

Friday: Pleasantly surprised, Philip and I received an invitation from the hotel reception staff at the Sheraton (where we are to staying) to celebrate the 22nd birthday of one of the employees last night. The staff is all young, fun and as we learned pretty wild. It was really cool of them to invite us. We met them at a club called Ink in Palermo - a trendy, upscale area of BA that is covered in bars, restaurants and Boliches (clubs) . Palermo is a very large area and there are so many bars that it is overwhelming. Anyway, after dinner, we arrived to Ink around midnight where we were denied since the club didn't even open until 1:30 am. We passed the time in a nearby bar and returned to find our new friends, dancing and passing around small bottles of white wine. The DJ at Ink was spinning great electronic music that kept the energy levels high. See the second photo of Steve, the staff supervisor, who had the funniest dance moves and made priceless facial expressions. We danced the night away and had an incredible time - arriving home around 4 am. It was a great night - can't wait to see the staff later today.

Impressions of BsAs (Buenos Aires)

Here are my impressions of Buenos Aires from the first 48 hours.

1. It feels much like NYC. If I didn´t know where I was and there wasn´t Spanish everywhere, I would think I was in the Big Apple.

2. The people are very friendly, stylish, fast paced and energetic. They speak with a funny accent. The women are highly attractive. The city is very international and full of culture. Unlike Santiago, everyone looks different.

3. This city doesn´t get going until late. Restaurants don´t get full until 10 pm and people eat until 2 am. Clubs aren´t fun until 2 or 3 am and stay open until sunrise.

4. The city is old and has great architecture, structures, and character. Just like in downtown
NYC, you can get lost weaving through tiny streets, exploring unique shops and sampling all kinds of great food and culture.

5. There are great public spaces - plazas, parks, etc.

6. The metro and bus system works well. The city is a bit dirty in places. Like NYC, you can tell some of the infrastructure is a bit old.

7. The city is definitely inexpensive. Philip and I split a large steak, a big sausage, a veal milanesa, a roasted beef plate, a salad, mashed potatoes and a half liter of wine for $20 last night.

In comparison to Santiago, BA is much more energetic, fun and interesting. That said, Santiago was much cleaner, more modern and easier. However, I like BA much, much, much more. I could definitely imagine living here after school. The job hunt will begin as soon as I return home.In general, we are living like kings. Everyday we eat several steaks at a parilla, drink great wine, and relax in a great city. I don´t miss home at all.

Day 1: Buenos Aires

For our first full day in Buenos Aires, Philip and I decided to explore the Puerto Madero and San Telmo areas. The Puerto Madero is the original Port in BA from the city's founding. It lies on the Rio Plato which seperates Argentina from Uruguay. It was redeveloped about 15 years ago into a large mixed-use urban development with tons of restaurants, shopping, office and residential. It put West Village to shame. The local catholic university is also in the development - a very cool place to go to school and crawling with good looking girls. After scoping it out, Philip and I plan to return.

After exploring the port, we wandered over to San Telmo - this is one of the oldest neighborhoods in BA and consequently one of the most eclectic and lively. The streets are lined with unique cafes, dive bars, tons of antique shops, cool markets, and wonderful restaurants and grills. Here we sampled Yerba Mate, ate at a great Bodegon (El Albor), and sampled a 1/4 chicken off a street side grill. We also lingered in several bookstores and music shops - learning about local authors and musicians alike. The area is so dense with interesting stores (much like Greenwich Village or Soho) that a return trip is necessary. My senses were overwhelmed by the atmosphere.

El Albor - a typical argentinian Bogedon, meaning an INEXPENSIVE no-frills restaurant and grill serving typical Argentinian fare such as meats on the grill, a variety of stews and good homemade pastas. Each main entree is served with fresh bread and a side of potatoes (roasted, fried or mashed). Philip and I had two dishes and a large bottle of water for $7 with tip.

La Parilla (the grill) - This open-air, street side grill brought back memories of India. Even that said, it was the coolest culinary experience of the day. All types of meat are served on a coal grill and cooked fresh right on the street. There is a small counter with stools where patrons can enjoy a 50 cent glass of red wine, meat, unlimited fresh bread and a few different sauces like chimichurri or garlic salsa with their meat. The food is cheap, the meat is tasty and the atmosphere and experience is unbeatable (you couldn't find anything like this is NYC!)

Fredo - a very trendy book and music store run by two great Argentinian guys. The store and selection is small but well-chosen so there is nothing lacking. See Philip below sampling a selection of Argentinian music from the owner, Marcello.

Santiago - Day 2

Tuesday, July 31, 2007:

We spent the day walking the other half of Santiago. My feet, calves and hips are sore from the constant march. We began the day hiking up Cerro San Cristobal. Its a small mountain directly behind our hostel. A statue of the Virgin as well as a small chapel sits on top of the mountain observing the city through the fog and smog below. We opted to walk up one side and then took a cable car down the backside into an area known as Las Condas. Las Condas and the adjacent barrio, Vitacura, are the two nicest and newer areas of the city. They are honestly playgrounds of design - everything has been designed with architectural integrity, whether it appeals to one's tastes or not. The skyline is completely taken up by what appear to be 1950 and 60s modern condominium high-rises. The streets are lined with wonderful design, furniture, and clothing shops each housed in its own building rather than strip centers or shopping complexes. Each shop takes serious pride in its own store and uses the buildings design to make it stand out from the rest. The area is a testing-ground, sampling platter, and completely eclectic casestudy in typically contemporary, modern and occasionally wacky design. Another interesting note is that the residential area is full of lots of German cottage styled homes. Vitacura has a distinctly international (mostly eastern european and German) flair. There is even a sports and social club for Germans nearby. It was one of the coolest parts of Santiago that we visited yet.